Section

Guides and long reads

Planning pieces: how to structure the trip, how cove access works, what to know before walking, how people eat in Ogliastra.

Guides

Introductory guide

A handful of early decisions determine almost everything: where to sleep, how often to move, which days to give to the sea.

Beaches

The problem with these beaches is not finding them: it is understanding how you get there and what is allowed.

Trekking

Historic paths, no springs, patchy waymarking. Not hostile terrain, but it does not forgive improvisation.

Food & wine

The cooking of this coast is not seafood cooking. It comes from pastures, gardens and terraced slopes.

Where to stay

A fixed base just inland makes the whole east coast legible: I Mandorli, at Triei.